prepare the mainboard by removing all connectors and only connecting the two small cables that come with the Kit. If you want to coat your mainboard, now is the best time.

Make sure the cables sit correctly and fully inserted into the connector.

Prepare the LEDs, On/off switch and rec button by mounting them to the 3d printed part as shown in the picture.

Mount the 3d printed 'LED holder' to the BMPCC mainboard with 2x m2*6mm screw. Solder all cables from LEDs and switches to the flex PCBs. Attention: The bigger flex is labeled with REC Led. This is wrong. Solder the green power LED to the bigger flex PCB and the red REC LED to the smaller flex PCB.

The Power cable goes from the xt30 to the black connector that comes with the BMPCC. Make sure the connection is done exactly like in the picture (orientation is important). Red wire is positive, black is negative.

Mount the mainboard together with the LED holder onto the bottom CFK plate with 5x M2*6mm. On the other side of the mainboard, use 6x m2*6mm to attach the mainboard with the 3d printed cover and CFK plate.

The sensor case has to be prepared by inserting 3x m2*8mm press-in nuts (the longer M2 ones in the Kit). These nuts are inserted with the soldering iron (temperature around 220 deg. Celsius).

Also add the M3*10mm thread insert on the sides as well as the M3*14mm standoff.

The front parts of the original Lens mount can be moved 1:1 from the camera to the Nylon printed sensor housing. before mounting those parts, push the CFK plate onto the Nylon printed sensor housing.

The sensor can now be pushed on the sensor housing. Using 1x 0.5mm shim should be the optimal shimming distance, but please check that individually for each BMPCC naked build. Mount the sensor with 3x M2*6mm screws.

Push in 4x M2*22m standoffs into the sensor housing and close the sensor cable hole by pushing the back lid over the standoffs and using by 1x M3*12mm screw from the front to secure it.

Now finish the sensor housing assembly by mounting sensor CFK back plate with 4x M2*6mm screws.

Now prepare the upper part of the Cage. Use the ALU brackets to mount the side braces onto the topplate. Lastly screw on the 3D printed holder for the Lens with 3x m3*8mm and washers underneath.

Mount the sensor housing with the BMPCC sensor cable onto the Topplate and connect the sensor cable to the mainboard.

To free the display, first remove all screws in the back and disconnect the button, touchscreen and LCD cable. Then remove the alu cover in the back of the screen.

The Display can be removed from its original housing by heating it up and carefully inserting a thin knife in between display and display housing. The Display is glued, so the Goal is to cut the clue with the knife. DO NOT PUSH THE DISPLAY OUT. Cut a few times until it falls out of the cage on its own. If you push, chances are high that you will crack the screen.

Now heat up the alu back cover and remove the FPC cable by heating the alu and slowly lifting the cable. Best is to slowly pull at a lower angle to avoid bending and damaging the cable and its connectors. Reattach the cable to the back of the display where touchscreen and LCD cable can be reconnected. Also clean the display of any leftover glue.

Prepare the new display mount by using 4x M2*4mm insert thread and around 220° Celsius on your soldering iron.

Finally insert the screen and use the two 3d printed mounting braces with 4x M2*4mm screws to hold it in place.

Insert the display into the camera and connect to the mainboard. The display is mounted to two M3 standoffs as well as these little 3D printed mounts (check picture) that fit the hinge design. The front one has a little cutout to allow CFast access. Mount these with M3*6mm from below and M3*12mm from the top (through the display mount).

Display section is finished!

Button & LED & Power cable (not needed for DIY builds with the KIT)**

360 Ohm for power LED (470 earlier models) 300 Ohm for REC LED (310 earlier models)

If the small FPC cables do not hold in your connector, use one layer of electrical tape underneath to increase the thickness.

Flex Cable: Soldering Iron : 320 degree C Hot Air: 270 degree C

Press-in-nuts: 220-250 degree C

Shim: ~ 0.7mm for newest BMPCC 4k with PA12 SLS Lens mount Shim: ~ 0.6mm for newest BMPCC 4k with PA12 MJF Lens mount

Shim: ~0.6mm for newest BMPCC 6k currently

infitiy is not reached (not reaching infinity focus at all): less shim needed

infinity is reached but too early (you can focus past infinity): more shim needed