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--- public:cx360-diy-pro-manual [2024/04/05 15:05] – created admin
+++ public:cx360-diy-pro-manual [2024/12/09 18:01] (current) – ↷ Page moved from internal:public:cx360-diy-pro-manual to public:cx360-diy-pro-manual admin
@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-====== RangeX Epic DIY Manual ======
+====== CinematiX360 DIY Manual ======
-{{:public:rangex_pro_overview.jpg?600|}}
+{{:public:360-22.jpg?600|}}
 ===== General Information =====
-The RangeX Pro demands caution to prevent injury. Never connect the battery without removing propellers or using a smokestopper while on the bench.
+The CinematiX360 demands caution to prevent injury. Never connect the battery without removing propellers or using a smokestopper while on the bench.
-Equipped with INAV as its flight controller software, the RangeX Pro enables reliable GPS features such as Return to Home (RTH) and position hold. Though acro flying isn't as optimal as with Betaflight, for Long Range missions, this is a minor trade-off, and familiarity with INAV's characteristics develops quickly.
 It's advisable to inspect and retighten all screws after the initial successful flights due to motor-induced vibrations. Regularly checking these screws ensures continual drone reliability.
-Purchasing the BNFs with the InstantFly Kit includes the pre-mentioned procedures. However, going through these processes offers a comprehensive understanding and allows optional adjustments for personalized drone preferences. Our preset settings cater to beginners and experienced pilots, facilitating cinematic flying.
 ===== Content of Shipment =====
-  * RangeX Epic CFK Kit
+  * CinematiX 360 CFK Kit
   * Standoffs and Screws
-  * 3D Kit
+  * 3D Printed Parts
-  * Silicon Battery Pad
+  * 1x Servo
+  * 2x XT30 connector
+  * 2x XT30 mounting plate
+  * 1x USB-C male connector
+  * 2x M2 pressnut
+  * 2x 5v BEC
+  * 1x AIO FC ESC with capacitor and USB-C female connector
 ===== Tools needed =====
   * Soldering Iron
   * Solder
+  * 1.3mm Hex Screwdriver
   * M2 Screwdriver
   * M3 Screwdriver
@@ Line 34: / Line 30: @@
   * HotAir Gun or Lighter
   * Cable Cutters
+  * Heatshrink
+  * Conformal Coating
+  * Locktite
+  * Motor wire tape
+  * Plastidip
 ===== Safety information =====
@@ Line 39: / Line 40: @@
 ===== Building Steps =====
-==== Step - Frame ====
+==== Step - Motors ====
-Screw the frame together
+{{:public:cx360_diy_01.jpg?800|}}
-==== Step - Electronics preparation ====
+Screw the motors to the frame with the included M2 5mm screws. Check the right screw length before screwing on the motors in order to prevent damage to the motor coils. We recommend to use blue locktite to prevent the motor screws becomming loose. Check the motor cable orientation on the picture and secure the motor cables with your favourite tape.
-=== LEDS ===
+==== Step - Prepare FC ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_02.jpg?800|}}
-{{:public:rangex_epic_led.jpg?400|}}
+Prepare your flightcontroller by soldering on the USB-C extension cables on the bottom on the fc. Then you can proceed to coat the underside of the fc with your favourite conformal coating. Then add the silicone grommets to the fc.
-Solder AWG XY wire to the the + and - pad's of the cob led strip. Then apply double sided tape to the cob led strip. Then we recommend to coat the solder connection with silcone coating.
+==== Step - Secure FC ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_03.jpg?800|}}
-=== ESC ===
+Now add the flightcontroller to the frame with the provided M2 12mm screws. The arrow on the fc should be pointing forward towards the flight direction. To make soldering easier you can also add some M2 nuts to secure the fc temporarily in place.
-{{:public:rangex_epic_esc.jpg?400|}}
+==== Step - Solder motor cables ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_04.jpg?800|}}
-Solder a AWG XY wire to the + and - pad's of the esc. Also solder two additional red and black AWG XY wires the + and - pad's of the esc.
+Now adjust the length of the motor cables so they fit perfectly to the motor pads of the flight controller and solder them in place.
-=== Receiver ===
+==== Step - Power cables ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_05.jpg?800|}}
-{{:public:rangex_epic_rx.jpg?400|}}
+Now add two red and two black AWG16 wires to the battery pads of the fc. This step can be tricky as the battery pads are very close to each other. Just take some time and check that you have no bridge between the pads when you are finished.
-Grab your TBS Diversity RX and solder the following 5 wires provided with the rx.
+==== Step - AUX power cables ====
-  * Red --> RX 5v
+{{:public:cx360_diy_06.jpg?800|}}
-  * Black --> RX GND
-  * Yellow --> RX TX
-  * White --> RX RX
-  * Green --> RX CH5
-  * We also recommend to coat the rx.
-=== FC ===
+Now add three red and three black AWG XY wires to the soldered battery pads. You need two short pairs for the capacitor and bec + one pair of long cables for the camera bec in the back of the frame. This step can also be tricky, take your time and make sure you don't get a cold solder joint. Afterward check that the battery pads still are not bridged.
-{{:public:rangex_epic_fc.jpg?400|}}
+==== Step - RX wires ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_07.jpg?800|}}
-Grab your FC, add the silicone standoffs and coat the underside of it. Then solder the TBS diversity RX to the FC using the 4 wires. You can also solder two wires providing 5v and GND for the rc switch. You can also see that we pretinned the gps connections.
+Locate the rx connection and add four colored wires to the fc. You need RX/TX/5v and GND. Make sure the cables are long enough to reach the rx holder position
-=== DJI O3 ===
+==== Step - USB-C extension ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_09.jpg?800|}}
-{{:public:rangex_epic_o3.jpg?400|}}
+Shorten the USB-C extension cables by around 2cm. Now you can solder on the USB-C connector. Make sure to get 5v/GND/D- and D+ right. You don't need to cross D- and D+ as you are used with RX and TX pads.
-Grab your O3 unit and then loosen the two front facing + screws on the bottom of the unit.
+==== Step - Prepare 360 camera mount ====
-Now remove the camera connector carefully.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_10.jpg?800|}}
-Then proceed to remove the 4 M2 screws on the camera housing.
-Now you can unscrew the two + screws on the side of the camera housing and start to carefully pry the housing apart.
-Then you remove the camera connector carefully by lifting it up on it's edged.
-Now you can use a sharp object to carefully remove the glue from the silicone grommet.
-Once the glue is removed you can now push the silicone grommet facing outwards the camera unit and pull by side. Then slide the cable trough the hole on the back of the housing.
-Now pull the longer 15cm cable through that opening and connect the camera connector.
-Now you can close up the camera housing again and screw it back together with the two + screws.
-Now carefully add the silicone grommet again.
-Watch out for the right direction and slowly work the silicone back in place.
-Then you can put the aluminium plate on the bottom of the o3 unit back in place securing the connector.
-Now also remove the other two + screws on the bottom side of the unit.
-Now grab the 3d printed o3 holders provided in the kit and screw them onto the bottom of the o3 unit using the M1.6 screws.
-Now you can also remove the original o3 antenna and screw the antenna holder back in place.
-==== Step - Motors ====
+Add 6 M2 22mm standoffs into the coresponding holes. You can press them in by pushing it onto a flat surface. If there is too much resistance it helps by warming up the tpu part slightly.
-IMAGE
-Add the 4 motors to the arms. You may have to bend the wires down onto a flat surface first. We recommend to use blue loctite for the 12mm M3 motor screws.
+==== Step - Mount 360 camera mount ====
-==== Step - Mount LED's ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_11.jpg?800|}}
-IMAGE
-Now you can mount the LED's to the side braces of the frame facing downwards. The cables should be facing backwards.
+Now you can add the 360 camera mount to the frame. First you have to remove the motor wire tape in the middle as this was only used to help with soldering. Then align the camera mount above the frame, flip the frame around and then guide all the cables into the coresponding slots. You have to fiddle a bit around to get it perfect, just take your time. When done secure the mount by using 6x M2 6mm screws.
+==== Step - Capacitor ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_13.jpg?800|}}
+Shorten one pair of the AUX power cables and solder the capacitor to it. Make sure to get + / - polarity right, else your capacitor will explode. When done slide the capacitor into the capacitor mount on the camera mount. Then we always like to use plastidip to cover the solder points.
+==== Step - RX wiring ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_14.jpg?800|}}
-IMAGE
+Shorten the rx cables to the needed length. Solder on your rx and then coat it with conformal coating. Clip on the antenna onto the UFL connector and add a heatshrink to protect the components of the rx. Then you can slide the rx into the rx mount on the camera mount. Heating up the tpu slightly helps with this process. Make sure to not overdue the heating as the tpu can break. Then route the antenna wire through the coresponding slot on the camera mount. In order to do this you have to remove one of the M2 6mm screws holding the camera mount. Then screw it back in when you are done.
-Now tape the LED's on both sides for additional support and to protect the pads.
-==== Step - Immortal T and Cable Management ====
-IMAGE
-Get your Immortal T extra extetnded antenna and put it into the provided TPU mount. Now route the cables along the arm including the Immortal T and LED cables. Then tape them into place.
-==== Step ====
-==== Step ====
-==== Step ====
-==== Step ====
-==== Step ====
+==== Step - Camera power ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_15.jpg?800|}}
+Now shorten the long AUX power cable to fit the BEC in the back of the frame. Solder your BEC to the cables and make sure you get the polarity right. Then solder a pair of cables and the USB-C plug to it. When you are done coat the BEC and USB-C plug. And then cover them with some heatshrink. Now you can use some double sided tape to stick the BEC in place.
+==== Step - Secure power cables ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_16.jpg?800|}}
+In the front of the frame you can find two holes designed to fit a cable tie to keep your power cables in place. Simply slide a cable tie through it and tighten the power cables down.
+==== Step - Battery mount ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_17.jpg?800|}}
+Add 2x M2 countersunk 8mm screws to the bottom of the battery plate. Then add 2x M2 washer on top of it. It should look like this.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_18.jpg?800|}}
+Then screw this to the frame by adding 2x M2 22mm standoffs to it. It should now look like this.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_19.jpg?800|}}
+Then you can slide the battery mount TPU part onto the standoffs with the cutout for the XT30 plug heading to the front of the frame. You can now cut the power cables to this length.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_20.jpg?800|}}
+Now just solder on the mounting plate to your XT30 connector. You have to do this twice. Now solder on the XT30 connector with the mounting plate to the power wires. Secure the solder points with plastidip and slide the cables through the cutout of the TPU part. Now use 4x M2 8mm screws to secure them tightly into place. It should now look like this.
-==== Air Unit heat information ====
+==== Step - Prepare USB-C mount ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_21.jpg?800|}}
-The O3 Air unit produces a lot of heat. Although actively cooled with a small fan, long term hovering or even standing can induce automatic power off due to heat limits of the O3 Air unit. Air stream during forward flight keeps the unit cool enough for reliable operation.
+Press 2x M2 pressnut into the USB-C PETG part. Make sure they are aligned straight.
-==== USB connection ====
+==== Step - Servo ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_22.jpg?800|}}
-The RangeX offers 3 different ways to connect the flight controller to your computer:
+Cut the last AUX power cable pair to length and solder the BEC to it. Push the servo into its designed mount on the camera mount and shorten the servo cable. Solder the signal wire of the servo onto the LED strip pad on the fc. Now solder the 5v+ and GND wire of the servo to the coresponding outputs of the bec. Conformal coat the BEC and put it into some heatshrink. Now all solder connections on the FC are done and you can also coat the topside of the FC with conformal coating. Place the BEC for the servo into the camera mount holder.
-  * external USB C: easy and reliable connection, every internal device / sensor is supplied with power. Good for checking / changing settings and calibration. Do not plug in the battery when connected with this method.
+==== Step - Add landing gear mount ====
-  * Bluetooth BLE: No cables needed, great for compass calibration. Slow reading speed.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_23_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * internal USB C on the FC: Fastest connection, only needed for downloading flight logs.
-==== Center of Gravity Information ====
+Mount the landing gear PETG mounts with four M2 6mm screws. They should be mounted upside down not like in the picture. TODO
-For optimal performance, aim to position the COG (Center of Gravity) of the RangeX Pro as close to the dotted line as you can. When using a 6s 4500 mAh, ensure it sits toward the rear for better balance. This balance is crucial to maintain smooth flight dynamics and prevent vibrations.
+==== Step - O3 Air Unit ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_25.jpg?800|}}
-{{:public:rangex_pro_manual_cog.jpg}}
+Remove the two M1.6 screws holding the antennas and remove the antennas. Then flip the O3 upside down and remove the four screws. Now align the TPU air unit holder and screw it in place using the originial four M1.6 screws.
-===== Before the first flight =====
+Now remove the four M2 nuts you may used to secure the FC and exchange it with the air unit. The four M2 12mm screws will screw directly into the O3 air unit TPU part. Make sure to not tighten it too much.
-==== Open and Close the Canopy ====
-=== Opening Procedure ===
+==== Step - Standoffs ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_27_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * Remove 4 horizontal screws (2 on each side).
+Now add all the missing standoffs to the frame. Front and back uses M2 22mm standoffs while the bumpers use M2 20mm standoffs. Secure them using M2 6mm countersunk screws.
-  * Remove 1 vertical screw from the back.
-  * Gently lift the canopy upwards, ensuring the antenna passes through the hole.
-  * Disconnect the small antenna "plug" from the SMA connector.
-{{:public:rangex_pro_manual_1_compressed.jpeg}}
+==== Step - Air Unit camera and antenna ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_28_new.jpg?800|}}
-=== Closing Procedure ===
+Now you can add the two O3 camera holder TPU parts. Simply slide them over the two M2 22mm standoffs in the front. Also slide down the antenna mounts on the standoffs facing in the direction shown in the picture.
-  * Carefully place the canopy on the drone, ensuring the antenna passes through the hole.
+{{:public:cx360_diy_29_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * Check fitting on all sides. Ensure the motor and immortal T antenna wire snugly fit into the slots.
-  * Add 1 vertical screw to the back.
-  * Add 4 horizontal screws (2 on each side).
-  * Insert the small antenna "plug" into the SMA connector.
-==== Binding your Remote Controller ====
+Now secure the O3 camera to the O3 camera holder TPU parts by using two M2 4mm screws. Also add the provided TrueRC antennas into the TPU mount (heating up the TPU part can help getting it to fit) and connect the antennas to the UFL ports on the O3. Now secure the UFL ports with the plate and the two original M1.6 screws.
-The RangeX Pro receiver arrives in bind mode. The button on the RX does not need to be pressed for initial binding, but here is the full procedure nevertheless:
+==== Step - SD extension mount & Immortal T ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_30_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * Power on your transmitter.
+Secure the Immortal T antenna with some tape (in the picture the antenna is mounted with cable ties but they tend to appear in the camera view).
-  * Enter Bind mode on your transmitter.
+Clip the TPU SD extension mount to the standoffs in the back.
-  * Power up the drone's receiver. USB power might suffice, or connect the battery (without propellers).
-  * Press the bind button on the Crossfire receiver within 20s of powering the RX.
-  * Confirm the bind procedure on your TX.
-{{:public:tbs-crossfire-diversity-nano-rx-full-range-receiver.jpg?400|}}
+==== Step - Topplate ====
-{{:public:rangex_pro_manual_2.jpeg?400|}}
+{{:public:cx360_diy_31_new.jpg?800|}}
-Adjust channel mapping in the receiver tab based on your transmitter. Typically, changing from TAER to AETR (or vice versa) aligns channels with stick axis.
+Now you add the topplate and screw it down using M2 6mm countersunk screws.
-{{:public:inav_rx_mapping.png}}
+==== Step - USB-C extension and battery plates ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_32_new.jpg?800|}}
-==== Change Flight Modes ====
+Now screw down the USB-C extension onto the topplate into the designed slot using two M2 6mm screws. You can now also add the two battery plates ontop of the battery mount. Also use some M2 washers in between.
-To reassign buttons on your remote controller, assign AUX channels to each flight mode using Inav configurator.
+==== Step - Landing Gear ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_33_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * Connect the drone via USB port of the flight controller to your computer
+Prepare the landing gear like in the picture above.
-  * launch INAV configurator
+Use the M2 screws to secure the carbon fibre plates to te aluminium standoff and then secure the piston arm to the plate with a M1.6 screw. Use two countered M1.6 nuts to secure them into place. We also recomend to use loctite here.
-  * Connect to the correspondent port
-  * Navigate to "Modes" tab
-  * Choose AUTO for the mode in question and press the corresponding button on your TX
-  * Don't forget to hit save!
-{{:public:inav_modes.png}}
-=== **IMPORTANT** ===
+{{:public:cx360_diy_34_new.jpg?800|}}
-For all models that support GPS rescue: The GPS rescue should not be activated if you are within 50m of the starting point. If the drone is within 50m radius of the starting point and GPS rescue is activated, the drone will drop form the sky. Only activate GPS Rescue manually if the drone is more than 50m away from its starting point.
+Add the servo horn to the servo and secure it with the included screw.
-==== Binding your DJI Goggle ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_35_new.jpg?800|}}
-  * Power on your DJI Goggle.
+Mount the piston plate to the servo horn onto the lowest hole with the included screw.
-  * Connect the battery to your BNF model. Only do this with props removed or a smokestopper.
-  * Wait until the Red LED appears on the DJI O3 VTX.
-  * Press the button on your DJI Goggle. It should beep twice every second.
-  * Press the button on the DJI VTX. The goggle confirms the binding by beeping twice.
-{{:public:dji-goggles-2.jpg?400|}}
+==== Step - Bottom camera protection ====
-{{:public:dji_o3_bind.button.jpeg?400|}}
+{{:public:cx360_diy_36_new.jpg?800|}}
-==== LED Setup ====
+Add the bottom camera protection PETG part to the frame and screw it down.
-The LEDs can be turned on and off with your remote controller. The LEDs are soldered to the Crossfire diversity RX on channel 5. You can change the channel on Output 5 to your preferred switch in the menu of the crossfire Diversity RX after it has been bound to your remote.
+==== Step - Top camera protection ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_37_new.jpg?800|}}
-{{:public:Rangexpro_LED_setup.jpg?500|}}
+Add the top camera protection PETG part to the frame and screw it down.
+==== Step - Propellers ====
-==== Compass Calibration ====
+{{:public:cx360_diy_38_new.jpg?800|}}
-The compass is calibrated in house for our testing, but depending on your location it's mandatory or recommended to recalibrate near the actual flying location. To do this:
+Add the propellers to the motors by using two M2 x 8mm screws.
+Make sure the direction is correct. We are using a pusher setup here.
-  * Connect the drone to your computer via USB or Bluetooth
-  * go to calibration tab in INAV configurator
-  * hit the calibrate magnetometer button. You now have 30seconds to move the drone so that each of the 6 sides points to the ground for around 5 s.
-Double-check good calibration by:
+==== Step - Finish ====
-  * Go into Setup Tab in INAV Configurator
+Flash Betaflight 4.5 to the flightcontroller and add our diff that you can find below.
-  * Check the heading displayed and compare to your phone or any compass. A deviation of max 5° is ok, better calibration yield better results.
+Then check the motor direction and change it if needed.
+Now bind your RX to your TX and change the chanel mapping.
+Now unlock your DJI O3 and bind it with your google.
-{{:public:rangex_pro_compass_compressed.jpg}}
+Always make sure to use a smoke stopper or remove the propellers for working on the bench
-===== Change Rates =====
-Rates affect the flight feel and determine the maximum speed of rotation around each axis for your drone. Our presets allow smooth and cinematic flight, but it is a good idea to experiment with the rates on order to find your personal settings.
-  * Connect the drone via USB port of the flight controller to your computer
-  * launch INAV configurator
-  * Connect to the correspondent port
-  * Navigate to "PID" tab
-  * Swap to "Rates & Expo" tab
-  * Adapt the parameters to your needs
-  * Don't forget to hit save!