Naked Action 5 DIY Manual

Work in Progress!!!!

• Naked Action 5 Kit

• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• PH0 Screwdriver
• M2 Screwdriver
• Cutter Knife
• Pliers
• Tweezers
• HotAir Gun
• Plastic Spudge
• Hobby Knife
• Heavy duty side cutters
• Solder mask
• UV flashlight

• Start by adding the battery to the camera and powering it on.
• Download the latest app onto your device and connect it to the camera.
• Activate your device and set date & time.
• Update your camera to the latest available firmware.
• Test your camera's functionality before proceeding with disassembly.

• Power off the camera and remove the battery from the camera.
• Use a cutter knife to slide along the seam of the back display. Adding heat with a heat gun can make this step easier. Make sure to not cut to deep so you don't damage the back display ribbon cable
• Gently lift the display from the main body of the camera. The flat ribbon cable connecting the back display to the motherboard is still connected.

• Remove the battery latch.
• Remove the tape covering the screws in the battery bay. Alternatively, you can poke holes with a screwdriver to access the screws.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the three screws from the battery bay.
• Heat up the glue securing the wifi module ribbon connector and remove it gently.
• Disconnect the wifi module ribbon connector.
• Lift and remove the battery bay, putting one finger through the cutout for the battery will help.

• Remove all flat ribbon cables from the motherboard. These connectors are secured with hot glue.
• Heat the glue with a hot air gun and remove it carefully with a plastic tool.
• Gently lift the connectors with a plastic tool to unplug them. It's best to start with the backdisplay. Repeat for all the ribbon connectors.

• Heat up and remove the glue at the antenna connectors from the wifi module.
• Disconnect the antenna cables.
• Heat up and remove the glue at the antenna connectors from the mainboard.
• Disconnect and remove the antenna cables.
• Unscrew the screw holding the wifi module in place with a PH0 screwdriver and remove it by lifting it straight up.

• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove screw holding the silver bracket ontop of the lens and remove it by prying it upwards with some tweezers.
• Remove the two silver springs by grabbing them with some tweezers and prying them in a up and back motion.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the screw holding the USB C PCB in place and remove it by gently lifting it up and backwards.
• Lift up the black plastic bracket ontop of the lens and fold it to the side as shown.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the last screw sitting at the top left corner of the lens bracket.
• Remove the lens bracket by lifting it straight up.

• Remove the ribbon cable that you bent away in the previous step from the camera housing.
• You need to pry the aluminium plate up that secures the ribbon cable.
• Break off the molten plastic first to make this job easier and use a flat tool to pry up the aluminium plate.
• Remove the ribbon cable.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the two screws securing the lens ribbon cable bracket.
• Remove the lens ribbon cable bracket by lifting it up
• Carefully unplug the lens ribbon cable connector and lift it up.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to unscrew all three screws holding the lens into place.
• Remove the lens by pulling it straight up and place it onto a microfiber cloth into a safe spot.

• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the two screws holding the mainboard.
• Pry out the mainboard with a plastic tool at the given location.
• Once the mainboard is loose, lift it up straight to remove it.

• Unscrew the clear lens protector on the front side by turning it counter clockwise.
• Use a PH0 screwdriver to remove the four screws holding the mainboard holder.
• Screw in the spare screw from the lens cover to the top right corner of the mainboard holder. Make sure to not screw it in to deep and damaging the front display.
• Break away the molten plastic on the top right side.
• Tuck in the ribbon cable connector from the sensors and button into the gap from the mainboard holder.
• Pry out the mainboard holder using pliers on the screw and pushing in from the lens side with a finger.
• Once the mainboard holder is around the height of the middle of the case, pay attention to not damage the front display connector and also make sure the ribbon cable from the sensors and button goes behind the nose of the mainboard holder.

WARNING: This is the most crucial step of these whole instructions. Compared to a GoPro or Action 4 the front display of the Action 5 Pro is very brittle and breaks easily. There are multiple methods to remove such a front screen. However we did not have luck with any of that. Using much heat results in a non reversible heat damaged display. Using solvents to break up the glue will result in visible spots on the display. Using much pressure to pry the display out will result in micro cracks and a broken screen. Also the electronics are not protected on the backside so by pressing it out you will risk damaging the electronics. Dremeling the display out using a rotary tool will leave lots of plastic on the front screen that is hard to remove without cracking the display.

The approach we took takes a lot of time and work, is also not 100% bulletproof but we had the best experiences doing it like this. If you have found a better method please let us know. Also don't rush with this process. It takes a good hour to get the display out safely.

For safety its recommended to wear safety googles for the risk of tools breaking and also use some cutproof gloves. You can easily slip on the rubber/plastic and cut yourself. So always be mindful of your finger / hand position.

• Use some electrical tape to tape the front display ribbon connector to the displays back side. This will protect the ribbon cable a bit.
• Use a cutter knife at a angle to remove unnecessary rubber/plastic around the display. Here you have absolutely no electronics so you can go deep. Just make sure you don't scratch the display.
• Use a sharp hobby knife to start carving a groove around the front display.
• Now go deeper step by step removing the rubber and plastic around the screen.
• Once you are deep enough, go in at a angle towards the middle of the display.
• Be careful at the bottom side, the cable sits very close to the outer edge and when you cut into this its game over so we focus at the left, upper and right side.
• Once you are deep enough to reach under the front display you can try to get under it with a plastic tool.
• Remove material until you can go from the left over the top to the right side with the plastic tool. Make sure to not add any pressure to the display. Carve more out if the tool doesn't slide under properly.
• Once the three sides are completely free use a little bit of heat on the bottom side of the display.
• Now very carefully pry out the display on its bottom edge.
• If you feel to much force, carve out more at the bottom edge and or use a bit more heat.
• Once you sucessfully removed the front display, clean up the front display edges from any plastic and silicone residue.

• Use a rotary tool to cut off the three noses from the bracket.
• Create a cutout at the lens section.
• File all cutted sections smooth
• Clean up the mainboard bracket from all thermal paste and metal shavings.

• Clean up all leftover glue next to the ribbon connectors, use heat and some plastic tweezers for this making sure to not damage any components on the mainboard.
• Desolder the battery connector, remove it and clean up the solder pads.
• Solder a black wire to the - solder pad of the mainboard and a red wire to the + solder pad of the mainboard.

• Cut the noses from the button using some heavy duty clippers. Make sure to not damage the ribbon cable.
• Desolder the button and clean up the solder pads.
• Solder a white wire to the correct pad of the button.
• Use some UV mask to protect the cable and solderpads and cure with a UV flashlight.

• Clean up all the glue next to the ribbon connector by using heat and some plastic tweezers.
• Clean up all the thermal paste leftover on the wifi module.

• Clean up all the thermal paste leftover on the back display.
• Pry open the shielding from the display and remove it.
• Temporary remove the tape above the ribbon plug on the ribbon pcb.
• Disconnect the ribbon cable by opening the lash on the ribbon connector and pulling back on the ribbon cable.
• Place the tape back onto the ribbon pcb.
• Heat up the ribbon pcb and remove it from the display using some plastic tools.
• Cut off the display flush making sure to leave on the black chip on the ribbon pcb side.
• Cut the ribbon pcb like shown in the picture

• Press the thread inserts into the outer side of the naked case using a clean soldering iron set to 220°C.
• Use 3x M2*4mm and 1x M2*3mm thread inserts, placing the 3mm insert in the marked position.

• Glue the front display in place with 2K epoxy. Wait for the epoxy to cure.

• Put the Sensors to the cutout on the front side of the case using the double sided tape thats already on the sensor.

• Screw the aluminum ND filter adapter to the motherboard holder.

• Place the motherboard holder into the naked action 5 front case and secure it with the four silver screws.
• Screw an M1.6*6 screw through the top right hole and secure it with an M1.6 nut inside for additional strength.
• Install the mainboard with the two screws.
• Attach an ND filter to protect the lens during installation.
• Install the lens and secure it with three lens screws.
• Add the lens ribbon bracket and secure it with two screws.
• Attach the wifi module holder and secure it with a screw.
• Add the wifi module on top of it and secure it with a screw.
• Add the wifi module antenna cables and connect them on both sides.
• Add the wifi ribbon cable and connect it on both sides.
• Add the back display cable and tape it together to a compact package sitting ontop of the mainboard.
• Fold the sensor and button ribbon cable to a package, secure it with tape and place it under the wifi module ribbon cable.

• Connect the lens cable and front display cable to the mainboard. Ensure correct alignment before applying force.

• Attach the bracket on top of the lens cable connector with the two screws.
• Pry out the Naked Action 4 BEC cable from the foil and connect the three connectors to the motherboard.
• Attach the cooling fan to the back case with M2*5 screws using an M2 hex tool.

• Solder the fan's voltage and ground cables to the BEC's pre-tinned 5V and GND pads.
• Connect the BEC flex cable to the BEC.
• Place the BEC into the back case and screw the front and back cases together using 4x M1.6*8, 1x M1.6*12, and 1x M1.6*16 screws with a PH0 screwdriver. The longest 16mm screw goes in the top left corner, the 12mm screw in the bottom left, and the 8mm screws in the remaining holes.