CinematiX360 DIY Manual

The CinematiX360 demands caution to prevent injury. Never connect the battery without removing propellers or using a smokestopper while on the bench.

It's advisable to inspect and retighten all screws after the initial successful flights due to motor-induced vibrations. Regularly checking these screws ensures continual drone reliability.

• CinematiX 360 CFK Kit
• Standoffs and Screws
• 3D Printed Parts
• 1x Servo
• 2x XT30 connector
• 2x XT30 mounting plate
• 1x USB-C male connector
• 2x M2 pressnut
• 2x 5v BEC
• 1x AIO FC ESC with capacitor and USB-C female connector

• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• 1.3mm Hex Screwdriver
• M2 Screwdriver
• M3 Screwdriver
• Cutter Knife
• HotAir Gun or Lighter
• Cable Cutters
• Heatshrink
• Conformal Coating
• Locktite
• Motor wire tape
• Plastidip

Screw the motors to the frame with the included M2 5mm screws. Check the right screw length before screwing on the motors in order to prevent damage to the motor coils. We recommend to use blue locktite to prevent the motor screws becomming loose. Check the motor cable orientation on the picture and secure the motor cables with your favourite tape.

Prepare your flightcontroller by soldering on the USB-C extension cables on the bottom on the fc. Then you can proceed to coat the underside of the fc with your favourite conformal coating. Then add the silicone grommets to the fc.

Now add the flightcontroller to the frame with the provided M2 12mm screws. The arrow on the fc should be pointing forward towards the flight direction. To make soldering easier you can also add some M2 nuts to secure the fc temporarily in place.

Now adjust the length of the motor cables so they fit perfectly to the motor pads of the flight controller and solder them in place.

Now add two red and two black AWG16 wires to the battery pads of the fc. This step can be tricky as the battery pads are very close to each other. Just take some time and check that you have no bridge between the pads when you are finished.

Now add three red and three black AWG XY wires to the soldered battery pads. You need two short pairs for the capacitor and bec + one pair of long cables for the camera bec in the back of the frame. This step can also be tricky, take your time and make sure you don't get a cold solder joint. Afterward check that the battery pads still are not bridged.

Locate the rx connection and add four colored wires to the fc. You need RX/TX/5v and GND. Make sure the cables are long enough to reach the rx holder position

Shorten the USB-C extension cables by around 2cm. Now you can solder on the USB-C connector. Make sure to get 5v/GND/D- and D+ right. You don't need to cross D- and D+ as you are used with RX and TX pads.

Add 6 M2 22mm standoffs into the coresponding holes. You can press them in by pushing it onto a flat surface. If there is too much resistance it helps by warming up the tpu part slightly.

Now you can add the 360 camera mount to the frame. First you have to remove the motor wire tape in the middle as this was only used to help with soldering. Then align the camera mount above the frame, flip the frame around and then guide all the cables into the coresponding slots. You have to fiddle a bit around to get it perfect, just take your time. When done secure the mount by using 6x M2 6mm screws.

Shorten one pair of the AUX power cables and solder the capacitor to it. Make sure to get + / - polarity right, else your capacitor will explode. When done slide the capacitor into the capacitor mount on the camera mount. Then we always like to use plastidip to cover the solder points.

Shorten the rx cables to the needed length. Solder on your rx and then coat it with conformal coating. Clip on the antenna onto the UFL connector and add a heatshrink to protect the components of the rx. Then you can slide the rx into the rx mount on the camera mount. Heating up the tpu slightly helps with this process. Make sure to not overdue the heating as the tpu can break. Then route the antenna wire through the coresponding slot on the camera mount. In order to do this you have to remove one of the M2 6mm screws holding the camera mount. Then screw it back in when you are done.

Now shorten the long AUX power cable to fit the BEC in the back of the frame. Solder your BEC to the cables and make sure you get the polarity right. Then solder a pair of cables and the USB-C plug to it. When you are done coat the BEC and USB-C plug. And then cover them with some heatshrink. Now you can use some double sided tape to stick the BEC in place.

In the front of the frame you can find two holes designed to fit a cable tie to keep your power cables in place. Simply slide a cable tie through it and tighten the power cables down.

Add 2x M2 countersunk 8mm screws to the bottom of the battery plate. Then add 2x M2 washer on top of it. It should look like this.

Then screw this to the frame by adding 2x M2 22mm standoffs to it. It should now look like this.

Then you can slide the battery mount TPU part onto the standoffs with the cutout for the XT30 plug heading to the front of the frame. You can now cut the power cables to this length.

Now just solder on the mounting plate to your XT30 connector. You have to do this twice. Now solder on the XT30 connector with the mounting plate to the power wires. Secure the solder points with plastidip and slide the cables through the cutout of the TPU part. Now use 4x M2 8mm screws to secure them tightly into place. It should now look like this.

Press 2x M2 pressnut into the USB-C PETG part. Make sure they are aligned straight.

Cut the last AUX power cable pair to length and solder the BEC to it. Push the servo into its designed mount on the camera mount and shorten the servo cable. Solder the signal wire of the servo onto the LED strip pad on the fc. Now solder the 5v+ and GND wire of the servo to the coresponding outputs of the bec. Conformal coat the BEC and put it into some heatshrink. Now all solder connections on the FC are done and you can also coat the topside of the FC with conformal coating. Place the BEC for the servo into the camera mount holder.

Mount the landing gear PETG mounts with four M2 6mm screws. They should be mounted upside down not like in the picture. TODO

Remove the two M1.6 screws holding the antennas and remove the antennas. Then flip the O3 upside down and remove the four screws. Now align the TPU air unit holder and screw it in place using the originial four M1.6 screws.

Now remove the four M2 nuts you may used to secure the FC and exchange it with the air unit. The four M2 12mm screws will screw directly into the O3 air unit TPU part. Make sure to not tighten it too much.

Now add all the missing standoffs to the frame. Front and back uses M2 22mm standoffs while the bumpers use M2 20mm standoffs. Secure them using M2 6mm countersunk screws.

Now you can add the two O3 camera holder TPU parts. Simply slide them over the two M2 22mm standoffs in the front. Also slide down the antenna mounts on the standoffs facing in the direction shown in the picture.

Now secure the O3 camera to the O3 camera holder TPU parts by using two M2 4mm screws. Also add the provided TrueRC antennas into the TPU mount (heating up the TPU part can help getting it to fit) and connect the antennas to the UFL ports on the O3. Now secure the UFL ports with the plate and the two original M1.6 screws.

Secure the Immortal T antenna with some tape (in the picture the antenna is mounted with cable ties but they tend to appear in the camera view). Clip the TPU SD extension mount to the standoffs in the back.

Now you add the topplate and screw it down using M2 6mm countersunk screws.

Now screw down the USB-C extension onto the topplate into the designed slot using two M2 6mm screws. You can now also add the two battery plates ontop of the battery mount. Also use some M2 washers in between.

Prepare the landing gear like in the picture above. Use the M2 screws to secure the carbon fibre plates to te aluminium standoff and then secure the piston arm to the plate with a M1.6 screw. Use two countered M1.6 nuts to secure them into place. We also recomend to use loctite here.

Add the servo horn to the servo and secure it with the included screw.

Mount the piston plate to the servo horn onto the lowest hole with the included screw.

Add the bottom camera protection PETG part to the frame and screw it down.

Add the top camera protection PETG part to the frame and screw it down.

Add the propellers to the motors by using two M2 x 8mm screws. Make sure the direction is correct. We are using a pusher setup here.

Flash Betaflight 4.5 to the flightcontroller and add our diff that you can find below. Then check the motor direction and change it if needed. Now bind your RX to your TX and change the chanel mapping. Now unlock your DJI O3 and bind it with your google.

Always make sure to use a smoke stopper or remove the propellers for working on the bench