====== FlowX V2 DIY Manual ======

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===== General Information =====

The FlowX V2 demands caution to prevent injury. Never connect the battery without removing propellers or using a smokestopper while on the bench.

===== Content of Shipment =====
  * FlowX V2 CFK Kit
  * Standoffs and Screws
  * 3D Printed Parts
  * 1x FC
  * 1x ESC
  * 1x Camera & VTX

===== Tools needed =====
  * Soldering Iron
  * Solder
  * M2 Screwdriver
  * M3 Screwdriver
  * Cutter Knife
  * HotAir Gun or Lighter
  * Cable Cutters
  * Heatshrink
  * Conformal Coating
  * Locktite
  * Motor wire tape
  * Plastidip

===== Safety information =====

===== Building Steps =====

==== Step - Basic X Frame ====
Grab the Bottomplate, Midplate and four Arms. Align them on the bench and secure them via 8x 12mm M3 screws.

==== Step - Motors ====
Screw the motors to the arms by using 16x 10mm M3 screws and loctite.

==== Step - Motor Wires ====
Bend the motor wires along the frame and back so they align with the side of the arm. Use the side that is protected from propstrikes. So if you use reversed configuration, align the wires in the front to the front side of the frame and the wires in the back to the backside of the frame. Now use tape to secure them to the arm.

==== Step - Stack Mount & ESC Prep ====
Add the ESC spacer to the midplate and secure it by screwing 4x 28mm M3 screws from the bottomplate through the spacer. Now take your ESC and pretinn all the pads with solder. Now insert the four silicon grommets to the ESC. You can now push it down onto the ESC spacer by sliding it onto the stack screws.

==== Step - ESC ====
Now shorten the cables so they can reach the corresponding ESC pad. We recommend to leave some slack so don't cut too tight. Strip the end of the wire and solder it to the pad. We recommend to solder hot but quick in order to not damage the ESC. Do this for all four motors.

Now add the XT60 connector by shortening the + wire the amount the + and - pads are apart from the ESC. Strip the end of the fire and solder it to the + pad of the ESC. Now solder a red cable for the capacitor to the + pad of the ESC. Then solder a black cable for the capacitor to the - pad of the ESC. And to finish the power connection solder the - cable of the XT60 to the - pad on the ESC.

Run the capacitor cables along the top of the ESC towards the front and plug in the ESC connector cable. 

==== Step - Pod Plate Front ====
Add the pod plate front by sliding it inbetween the bottom and midplate. Temporarily loosening the screws for the arms can help you with this step. Once in place use 2x 16mm M3 screws to fix it to the frame and add 2x 20mm M3 standoffs ontop of the thread.


==== Step - Capacitor ====
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Shorten the capacitor legs and solder the capacitor cables to the shortened legs. Make sure you get the polarity right. The - pole of the capacitor is always marked. When finished isolate the connection by using a drip of platidip ontop.

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Secure the capacitor with the capacitor TPU mount by pushing the capacitor into the mount. (Heating up the TPU part with a heatgun may help with this step) Now slide the capacitor into the front left slot on the pod front plate. Use some pliers to rotate it in place.

==== Step - FC ====
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Coat the bottom part of the FC with conformal coating. Once it's dry add the silicone grommets. Now slide down the FC onto the stack screws. Pretinn all the pads that you have to use. 1x 5v / GND / UART RX / UART TX for the Receiver and optionally 1x 5v / GND / UART RX / UART TX / SDA / SCL for a GPS.

Now solder your receiver to the FC onto the right pads. The receiver will find its place next to the capacitor so shorten the cables accordingly.

Optionally solder the cable for the GPS to the FC. The GPS will find its place at the end of the midplate so shorten the cables accordingly.

==== Step - Receiver Mounting ====
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Coat the receiver with conformal coating and wait for it to dry. Now add the antenna and put the receiver into a heatshrink. Use a hot air gun to shrink the heatshrink

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Now slide the receiver into the TPU receiver mount but make sure the bind button is reachable. (Heating up the TPU part can help you with this step). Once the receiver is in the mount add the mount to the frame by sliding it into the front right slot on the pod front plate and twist it into its place by using some pliers. The antenna cable should run behind the mounted standoff.

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Put the Antenna into the TPU antenna mount and secure it to the arm by using two zip ties.

==== Step - O3 Mounting ====
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Prepare your DJI O3 Air Unit by replacing the stock camera cable with a extended 20cm one.
Remove the DJI antenna and add the AirUnit cable to the unit.
Now remove the bottom four M1.6 screws of the unit and screw on the O3 TPU mount. Make sure to run the AirUnit and optionally the GPS cable through the O3 mount.

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Secure the O3 AirUnit to the frame by using four 6mm M3 screws.

==== Step - GPS and SMA Mount ====
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Prepare your GPS by coating all the components. Then add double sided sticky tape to the bottom antenna part of the GPS.

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Screw two U.FL to SMA adapters into the TPU GPS and Antenna mount by using four 4mm M3 screws.
Add two 20mm M3 standoffs to the back of the middle plate and secure them with two 8mm M3 screws.
Now slide down the TPU mount onto the two mounted standoffs in the back. Heating up the TPU can help with this step.

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Plug the connector of the GPS cable into the GPS.
Now remove the protective film of the double sided tape and push the GPS into its place.

==== Step - FC Top ====
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Add the FC TPU top mount to the four screws of the stack and thighten it down. Don't put to much force onto the FC as this will degrade the flight characteristics.

==== Step - Front Pod ====
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Grab the TPU front pod mount and add a single 20mm M3 standoff through the horizontal hole. Heating up the TPU part can help you with this step.

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Slide down the TPU front pod mount onto the front two standoffs. Make sure to route the camera cable between the standoffs and look out that you don't damage any motor cable or the antenna cable while pusing down.

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Grab the small TPU front pod mount and add a single 20mm M3 standoff through the horizontal hole. Heating up the TPU part can help you with this step.

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Mount the small TPU front pod mount by sliding it into the pod plate front. Heating up the TPU part can help you with this step. Add the pod plate top (with pressnuts) and the pod plate bottom to the frame and sandwitch the TPU part by using two 12mm M3 screws.

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Now add one camera plate to the pod mount by using two 6mm M3 screws. Then add the camera to the camera plate by using a 4mm M2 screw.

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Now add the second cameraplate with two 6mm M3 screws and secure the camera by using a second 4mm M2 screw.

==== Step - Final Assembly ====
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Add two 20mm M3 standoffs between the Stack and O3 AirUnit. Secure them with two 6mm M3 screws. Make sure to not squeeze any cable by doing so.


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Grab the topplate and cut down the battery pad into two pieces. Remove the protective film and tape the battery pad onto the topplate. Make sure to leave the holes clear.

Place the battery strap onto the FC top, making sure the orientation is right.

Now screw down the topplate onto the the six standoffs by using six 6mm M3 screws.

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Secure the GPS by going around with a tape. Make sure to only apply one layer of tape above the antenna.

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Screw down the FPV antennas onto the SMA connector.

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Prepare the TPU GoPro mount by adding two 20mm M3 standoffs into the holes. Heating up the TPU can help you with this step.

Now add the two TPU spacers to the front standoff.

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Add the GoPro mount to the frame by sliding it down between the two camera plates. Secure it with two 8mm M3 screws in the front and two M3 thumbscrews in the back


==== Step - Finish ====

Flash Betaflight 4.5 to the flightcontroller and add our diff that you can find below.
Then check the motor direction and change it if needed.
Now bind your RX to your TX and change the chanel mapping.
Now unlock your DJI O3 and bind it with your google.

Always make sure to use a smoke stopper or remove the propellers for working on the bench